Trips: Georgia - Max Travels

Georgia

August 2024

Tobavarchkhili Lake

After a long and bumpy ride from Kutaisi in a 'Mashukta,' the local van that connects remote regions, I arrived in Mukhuri. There, I met Alex, a Georgian hiker from Tbilisi I had connected with online. He would be my hiking companion for the next six days.

As we started trekking up the steep path on our first day through 30°C heat and dense forest, a roaring Soviet-era truck appeared on the hill behind us, offering us a spot squeezed together with a group of Georgian hikers a ride. The truck slowly pushed its way up the washed out road up over a thousand meters, with several stops as the engine overheated or needed an oil top up.

After our jump start, we made it to the first lake (Okhoje Lake) where we pitched our tents, the jagged peaks looming above us, and the sky turning shades of pink and orange as the sun dipped below the mountain tops, prompting a much needed early nights sleep. After this, we made our way to Toba Lake, where the breathtaking landscape was enough to make us momentarily forget the incessant swarming horse flies.

Lake Toba, with a horse fly photobombing the scenery.

The following day again we trenching for hours on end, through thick vegetation and too many elevation meters to count, we arrived to our planned campsite which was dry, and as the sun dipped below the mountains, exhaustion set in. With empty water bottles and aching legs, we pressed on. Finally, we found a small creek, but the thick rhododendrons made pitching the tent nearly impossible. It took all our remaining energy and some to clear space for a single tent, but damn that dinner tasted good when we finally got some.

The next days we went off the trail to find a new path to another lake, and our mental strength was now tested as our physical strength had the days before. We had to find our own path through the overgrown mountain landscape, which significantly slower as we climbed up only to discover a dead end, and had to walk down again. but spirits high when we finally arrived at our camp site. As we found the lake we were looking for, we felt complete, the beauty of our isolation was undeniable. We had found a new trail and new camp site, possibly the first people to set foot here.

Our last day down was no easier, as we scrambled down a high exposure section of cliffs, with little safety equipment. As we followed the river bed down, fresh bear tracks and droppings kept us alert. Normally staying far away from popular hiking paths, we knew we could see one on our trek though the off the beaten path. We spotted a brown bear just a few hundred meters away on a hillside and managed to scare it off. The encounter gave us a burst of energy to quickly head toward the nearest village.

We finally found an old cattle trail, which slowly became well-trodden and led to a small village, and we were greeted by the locals, a reminder that no matter how remote the wilderness, the kindness of Georgians is never far away. The rugged beauty of the Toba Lakes had tested us, but the pristine landscapes and sense of achievement would remain long after the soreness in our legs faded.

Our breakfast made for us by a friendly local.

A high-altitude lake surrounded by rocky slopes and patches of melting snow, with fog rolling through jagged peaks under a partly cloudy sky.

A narrow hiking trail winds through a lush green valley, with steep mountain walls rising on both sides. Thick clouds form above, hinting at changing weather.

A wooden cabin sits on a grassy slope at sunset, with several animals grazing nearby. Several goats stand on top of the roof of the cabin with the clouds lit up by the sunset.

A dramatic mountain valley scene with sunbeams breaking through thick clouds, casting light onto the lush green valley floor below.

Horses graze freely in a vast, green mountain meadow, with rocky peaks and patches of snow in the background under a partially cloudy sky.

A twilight scene of a remote mountain campsite with tents set up among rocky terrain, as the setting sun illuminates the snow-dusted peaks above.

A scenic valley covered in wildflowers, flanked by gentle green hills and tall mountains under a bright, cloudy sky.

The interior of a rustic mountain cabin, featuring a wood-burning stove, cozy beds, and clothing hung to dry, giving insight into rural mountain living.

The Milky Way arcs across the night sky, illuminating jagged mountain silhouettes in the foreground. A star-studded sky fills the frame, contrasting with the dark peaks below.

A wide, grassy valley stretches out between two mountain ranges, with ridges and small rock outcroppings breaking up the terrain. The valley floor is covered in patches of vegetation, while low clouds drift above.

Sharp mountain peaks rise from a lush green valley with snow patches still lingering on the upper slopes. The mixture of rock, grass, and snow highlights the elevation and ruggedness of the landscape.

A steep hiking trail winds through thick green foliage, leading into the distance along the mountainside. Trees and shrubs cover the slopes, while mist hangs in the higher peaks.

A single hiker stands in the middle of a vast green valley, surrounded by towering mountains on both sides. The trail meanders through the low grass, while clouds float overhead, casting shadows across the landscape.

A single large bear paw print is embedded in the wet soil next to a hiking boot. Small stones and dirt surround the impression, highlighting its depth and size.

The High Caucuses

After spending many days in remote areas, I made my way to the popular tourist hub of Mestia in the Georgian Caucasus. Here, I took some time to rest, resupply, and meet fellow hikers who like me, were planning to hike the famous Mestia to Ushguli trail.

Although it's one of the most popular trails in Georgia, we managed to find solace along much of the route. We wound through small, traditional villages, where stone towers rose against the backdrop of some of the highest mountains in the Caucasus. At night, we stayed in these villages, enjoying hearty Georgian meals paired with homemade wine and potent Chacha, while reminiscing about the views we had seen on the day's trip.

The trial tested strength and endurance of everyone on it, culminating in the crossing of a rushing river. As some opted to cross by horse, we braved the ice cold glacial meltwater with heavy packs, the strong current nearly toppling us over. Our toes gradually regained feeling throughout the day as we were rewarded with breathtaking views.

After three days on the trail, I decided to veer off the beaten path once again. Crossing a debris-covered glacier, I set up camp beneath a towering 5,000-meter ridge that marked the border with Russia. As I descended into Ushguli, I was once again welcomed with the warm Georgian hospitality that had made such a lasting impression after my last trek. I left Georgia with a sense of fulfilment overwhelming the exhaustion, I had bonded with strangers, locals, survived off the grid and explored what is still a relatively unexplored region.

Lush green and yellow mountain valley with sharp high peaks towering above among the clouds.

Mountain cows graze and one cow turns it's head to look backwards on top a misty mountain top.

Sunset view of a green mountain valley with snowy peaks towering above. A sole rider on a horse looks along the valley with mountains in the background.

A mountain hiking path through pine trees leading towards high mountains.

Green hills lead towards towering mountains in the background.

Dry yellow grass in a valley with large snowy mountains towering above with clouds above.

Two hikers with large backpacks walk along a narrow path through a green mountain side. Sharp mountains in the background.

A traditional Georgian town of Ushguli in a green valley with large mountains hidden in clouds.

A green, half forest covered mountain in the Georgian highlands. Completely devoid of human interference.

A sharp peaked mountain with patches of snow and a steep glacier, with several small clouds covering it at sunrise.

An eagle dives with grey rocky mountains blurred out in the background.

A mountain half covered in green vegetation and half rocky due to its remote location.

A tent set on a grassy field with dramatic mountains in the background.

A large, debris covered glacier in a green valley with sharp snow patch covered peaks in the background.

Modern Georgia

While the mountains of Georgia seem to be completely isolated and cut off from the rest of the world, as a hiker one is rudely awakened to the fact that economic development is not always pretty. Many previously isolated mountain valleys are now the center of huge infrastructure projects, building damns, roads, and hotels anywhere and everywhere. These photos illustrate the unfortunate reality that development sometimes means the destruction of pristine nature.

A concrete truck drives on a dusty dirt road navigating though a group of cows.

A large truck drives on a dusty road through a forested mountain valley in sharp midday light.

What's Next?

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